Although a sewer may choose to use a standard size that has been pre-graded on a purchased pattern, they may decide to tailor a pattern to better fit the garment wearer. Creating a sewer's muslin (also called toile using calico), similar to a garment template, is one method of fitting.
Muslin material is inexpensive and is easy to work with when making quick adjustments by pinning the fabric around the wearer or a dress form.
There are many pattern making system available, but M.
Muller & Sohn ( is widely used for its accuracy and fit for different body figure.
For women, this will usually be a jewel-neck bodice and narrow skirt, and for men an upper sloper and a pants sloper.
The final sloper pattern is usually made of cardboard or paperboard, without seam allowances or style details (thicker paper or cardboard allows repeated tracing and pattern development from the original sloper).
A sloper pattern (home sewing) or block pattern (industrial production) is a custom-fitted, basic pattern from which patterns for many different styles can be developed.Grading rules determine how patterns increase or decrease to create different sizes.Fabric type also influences pattern grading standards.Commercial clothing manufacturers make their own patterns in-house as part of their design and production process, usually employing at least one specialized patternmaker.In bespoke clothing, slopers and patterns must be developed for each client, while for commercial production, patterns will be made to fit several standard body sizes.